Besides poop-bags, the other most commonly used product for the greyhound is a collar.When you adopt your greyhound most likely they will be equipped with a muzzle and a martingale collar.
When I got my first greyhound I read a lot about the martingale collar.Everyone seemed to recommend this as greyhounds have skinny necks and can “back out of their collars.” What I was not clear on was that martingale collars should only be used for training or walking.
Unfortunately I found this out the hard way.One day Jethro and Darla were playing.They both had on martingale collars.Something happened and Jethro got Darla’s collar wrapped around his mouth.He was struggling to free himself and choking Darla in the process.Both Greyhounds were squealing and I was freaking out.I knew I had to act quickly.The saving grace was that Darla’s collar was too big and by a miracle I was able to pull Jethro close enough to Darla to give the collar some slack and pull it over her head.Darla and Jethro were OK; however, this could have ended in disaster if I had not been right there.I vowed only to use a Martingale collars while training.
Greyhounds can be flight risks and per their adoption agreement they need collars on all the time.I was frustrated with what I was going to do.
I first ordered leather fishtail collars.These collars are beautiful and I love to see Greyhounds sporting these collars, as they look so regal.Overall they are very effective but there was one drawback.My hounds are quite rambunctious and they have been known to take a notion to jump in the pool with a collar on.Their leather collars were quite worn at about a year.Sashi has been banned from leather.He chewed through one collar and did some damage to another.There had to be a better product.
One day I was watching a Greyhound race and noticed that the Greyhounds were being walked to the starting box with plastic buckle collars. I found Gun Dog Supply online and ordered a TufFlex collar for Sashi.These collars also included a brass nameplate that is riveted to the collar.They gave off a plastic smell when I first opened the package, but it dissipated overnight.
I love love love these TufFlex collars.Now all three Greyhounds wear these collars.They are easy to clean, pick up no odor from the dogs, and fit incredibly well.My Greyhounds cannot back out of these collars as long as they are adjusted in the correct position.I have been using these collars for about one year and can’t say anything negative about them.
However, for most Greyhounds the safest walking collar is a martingale. If you are concerned that you will forget to take it on and off, I highly recommend buying a martingale with a buckle. I have used these collars in the past and they are effective but get dirty quickly–or maybe Sashi just gets dirty quickly!
I hope that one of these collar options suits you and your Greyhound!
Today’s post is from guest writer Audrey Hsia. Audrey is a Greyhound enthusiast. She owns Greyhounds, Hungarian Greyhounds or Magyar Agars, and Dachshunds. Audrey’s knowledge on Greyhounds and running sports is extensive. She has been a wonderful resource to me as I have expanded my knowledge on the caring and keeping of Greyhounds. I hope you all enjoy this post as much as I did.
Open Field Coursing, or OFC as it is called by most participants, is a competitive field sport for sighthounds in which the dogs are set on live, wild jackrabbits and judged on their ability to pursue the hares. Although competitive coursing in the United States dates back to about the 1860’s, modern open field coursing originated in the 1960’s with the founding of the National Open Field Coursing Association (NOFCA). NOFCA was and remains the primary sanctioning body for open field coursing in the United States, but there are several other smaller groups organizing coursing events as well. These include the North American Coursing Association (NACA) and The Coursing Conservancy (TCC).
No matter which group is putting on the coursing meeting, the format is largely the same. OFC meetings can be either one of two types: breed stakes or mixed stakes. Breed stakes, as the name implies, are stakes where only breed is competing against itself. Mixed stakes are open to all sighthound breeds that are recognized by the sanctioning body, and dogs entered are competing against each other regardless of breed. Stakes are advertised as either breed stakes or mixed stakes prior to the running of the meeting; that way participants can choose to run their dogs only in breed stakes, only in mixed stakes, or both types as they please. In order to make a valid stake of either type, there must be at least five dogs entered to fill all of the placements.
Photo Credit: George Bell
Before the coursing meeting begins, all participants will meet at a designated location, usually a restaurant or gas station located near the field where the dogs will be running. At that point, roll call will be conducted and if the stake is large enough (15+ dogs), dogs will be divided into separate fields with separate judges. Once roll call is complete the courses are drawn into trios or braces at random. Each dog in a course is assigned a colored blanket (yellow, pink or blue), which the judge will use to identify the dogs during each course.
After all that prep work is done, everyone gets in their cars and drives out to the field. With few exceptions, the courses will be run in the order they were drawn. The course that is up is called to the front, while all the other participants line up behind to form a gallery, which will help to flush out the hares as the line moves forward.
Once a hare is raised, the huntmaster will assess whether or not all the dogs are sighted on it and/or whether or not it is likely to result in a viable course. Assuming all dogs are sighted and everything else is promising the huntmaster will yell “Tally ho!” signaling to the handlers that they may release their dogs. The judge, who is either walking alongside the gallery, or perched on top of a hill or tall vehicle will then observe the course and score the dogs on their performance. The dogs are scored using a category scoring format with each category being worth a certain amount of points. Categories include things like speed, agility, and endurance, with extra points being awarded to dogs who touch, take or attempt the take the hare. Unlike traditional English or Irish coursing, American open field coursing places a fair amount of value on dogs making kills during their courses. In fact, most if not all American OFC titles require that the dog make at least one kill during its career in order to make champion.
Preparation for open field coursing is very labor intensive for the dogs and handlers. Due to the unpredictable nature of the sport, it is imperative that the dogs be as physically fit as possible. Courses can go on for several minutes, and the hares frequently lead the dogs into terrain that can be difficult to navigate safely. As such, the best thing a handler can do to prepare a dog for open field coursing is to bring it up from a young age in preparation for the sport. This means giving their puppies ample opportunity to explore and exercise on varied terrain so that they can learn how to use their bodies safely and efficiently while they are still young and haven’t reached their peak speed. As adults, daily conditioning is essential especially if your dog is not competing on a regular basis to help maintain their fitness. Brisk walks, road work, and opportunities to gallop are all very good ways to keep a dog conditioned for open field coursing.
Besides preparing your dog physically for an OFC meeting, there are many other things you need to prepare for a day in the field. Comfortable walking shoes are a must, as OFC meetings can go from sun-up to sundown if hares are not plentiful. Depending on the terrain, you may also want to invest in chaps or gaiters to protect your legs from thorns and weeds which you may encounter while trying to flush the hares from their hiding places. Dressing in layers is also advisable, as temperatures can fluctuate throughout the day. Investing in a comfortable backpack or hunting vest is also a must, as you will need to carry plenty of water for you and your dog, as well as snacks, a first aid kit, coursing blankets, extra leashes, slip leads, and a GPS or other tracking device if you choose to use one.
Overall, Open Field Coursing is a challenging sport, but for those who make the effort it is guaranteed to be rewarding in a way that no other sighthound sport can be.
Today I am continuing my series on amateur running sports for Greyhounds.In addition to racing and lure coursing I wanted to write about Open Field Coursing (OFC).I did not feel I was a good person to write about OFC, as I have never been to an event (most are out west).It was suggested to have a guest writer post on OFC, and I thought that was a great idea.Next week you will be hearing from Audrey Hsia about OFC and greyhounds.I hope you all enjoy it!
Back to this week’s post on NOTRA or oval racing organized by the National Oval Track Racing Association.So what is NOTRA?NOTRA is oval racing.The hounds are usually boxed at the start but can be hand slipped.The distance of the track is between 241 yards and 440 yards.Greyhounds run three programs in one day.Generally 4 hounds run together, although depending on the number of entrants this can change.To have a Greyhound meet there must be at least two Greyhounds entered.Just like in LGRA or sprint racing, the Greyhound that reaches the finish line first wins.Also, winning and placing Greyhounds earn points that accumulate allowing them to earn titles.
NOTRA requires a little more thought from the Greyhound than LGRA or sprint racing.The Greyhound needs to make a path to get around the track.Some go immediately to the rail while others tend to run mid track and can make up time in the back stretch of the track.Each dog is different and will generally prefer a certain location on the track.The running style of different Greyhounds is fascinating to watch.If you go to a few meets you will see you dogs’ style develop and they will learn more with each run.
Photo Credit: Trent Rees
What do you need for NOTRA?You need a muzzle and the same 1-4 racing blankets you bought for LGRA.You also need to talk with the race secretary prior, as first time entries will need to be re–registered through NOTRA (your NGA number is fine).Your hound will need to be certified as well – if you Greyhound ran professionally generally they are good to go – but please check with the race secretary prior to the meet. If you have never boxed your Greyhound, it might be a good idea to practice this a few times prior to your first official meet.
As always, make sure you are aware of any injuries your Greyhound may have had on the pro track. Make sure that your Greyhound is at racing weight and well conditioned. Also, please check with your vet before beginning in amateur running sports to make sure your Greyhound is healthy enough to sustain these activities.
NOTRA is a lot of fun.You are able to see your Greyhound’s mind work as they improve with each trip around the track.I also feel that NOTRA reinforces that racing is not a bad or cruel sport but fun and Greyhounds love it.
I hope this has been helpful and you consider trying NOTRA with your Greyhound in the future.
Please check back next week for the final post in the amateur running sports series on Open Field Coursing by Audrey Hsia.
I hope you all found the lure coursing piece useful and fun.Today I want to discuss sprint racing, also know as LGRA as it is organized by the large gazehound racing association.
LGRA is a favorite of mine.I love the raw speed that sprint racing provides.I also like LGRA because the fastest dog wins, which removes any subjectivity from the event.However, it is not perfect.Today I will talk about what LGRA racing is and what you should think about if you decide this is the sport for you and your hound.
First, make sure you are aware of any injuries your Greyhound may have had on the pro track.Make sure that your Greyhound is at racing weight and well conditioned.As always, please check with your vet before beginning in amateur running sports to make sure your Greyhound is healthy enough to sustain these activities.
OK, now what is LGRA? LGRA is a sprint race of 200 yards with three programs. Generally four dogs compete in each race, this number can change depending on the entrants. Dogs are usually boxed at the start just like in pro racing and then they chase a drag lure for 200 yards.The hound that gets to the finish line first wins the race.LGRA is simple and a blast to watch.My dogs love it!Based on the number of entries, the dogs are awarded points.The larger the entry the more points for the winner and placing dogs.Once your dog has accumulated enough points they are able to obtain titles.(I have never seen a Greyhound get excited about a title, but the competition is fun for the owners.)
Photo Credit: Carl Doby
Besides having a fit dog, you need a muzzle and racing blankets for LGRA (1-4). Usually there are plenty of experienced Greyhound people at these events and will allow you to borrow blankets or muzzles if needed. Prior to arriving at the meet you need to contact the race secretary to register your dog and check if they need a certification run.Dogs that have raced in NOTRA or have raced professionally generally do not need a certification. However, it might be helpful to run some practice runs prior to your official meet to see how things work and get the hang of boxing your Greyhound.
I overall enjoy LGRA racing.I like that LGRA focuses on raw speed – the Greyhound does not have to consider manipulating turns or when is the best time to really turn up the speed.There are two things that I wish were different.I wish the length of the sprint were longer.I feel that Greyhounds are just getting up to top speed when the race is over and another 100 yards would be better for a lot of Greyhounds.I also wish there was a trap for the lure.When the lure stops, after the sprint with plenty of run out (area for the Greyhound to decelerate) all the dogs clobber the lure.Removing a Greyhound off a lure is very difficult and I have a very small bitch.I cannot imagine having to manipulate a 65+ pound Greyhound off a lure!
LGRA is rather safe, as it is a straight line without any turns; however, these Greyhounds are running hard and as with any strenuous athletic activity, injuries can occur.As always check your Greyhound’s feet after each run.If the ground is hard and you are wrapping pads, it is important to remove the vetrap after each run to make sure their feet are OK.I generally leave the elastikon in place if they haven’t run it off.
LGRA is a great sport for retired racers.It focuses on the Greyhound’s raw speed and is a blast to watch.I hope you now know a little more about LGRA and how much fun it is!Tune in next week for another post on amateur running sports.
By now you are probably aware that I think greyhounds are much more than 45 miles per hour couch potatoes.You may be thinking, I would love for my greyhound to have a more active lifestyle, but where do I start?
When I first adopted Jethro I was in the same boat.I knew about lure coursing but the other greyhound running sports were a mystery to me.
I am going to create a three-part series about amateur running sports in America.I am going to give you the details on: lure coursing, LGRA, and NOTRA.I hope that you will better understand the various options of running sports and find one or two that are best suited for you and your hound!
I am going to start with my most favorite amateur running sport, lure coursing.
First things first, what is lure coursing?Lure coursing was created the mimic open field or hare coursing– I am not sure that lure coursing creates this but it does create a nice athletic event to evaluate your hound’s ability.The idea is that the course should represent how a hare would behave in the open field.To create this, two to three white plastic garbage bags (lure) are tied to a line, and then the line with the lure attached is pulled by pulleys that are propelled by a generator throughout the course.There are two main ways to move the lure around the course: continuous loop and drag operated.Continuous loop courses allow running of multiple dogs quickly, as the line never comes off the pulleys, creating a continuous loop.However, in some long straights of the course the line can “ride high” and cause line burn or other injuries to the hounds.Drag operated lure does not cause line burn and some feel more engaging for the hound to chase.I prefer running my dogs on drag lure. It does take additional time to restring the entire 600-900 yard course. However, this is minimal and does not usually slow down the trial.
Photo Credit: Cindy Frezon
Now that you’re looking forward to a beautiful day in the country, what does you Greyhound need to do?All dogs competing in lure coursing will get two opportunities to run.If they win their stakes they will have the opportunity to run for breed and if they win their breed they would have the opportunity to run in Best in Field.Your Greyhound might potentially have to run four times in a day – that’s a lot of yards!
Prior to beginning any amateur sport, your Greyhound needs to be in tiptop shape.The Greyhound needs to be at their racing weight and well conditioned.It is important that you know if they had any injuries while on the track as that could impact the decision to lure course them or not.As always, discuss this idea of running sports with your vet to make sure your Greyhound is healthy enough to compete.
American Sighthound Field Association (ASFA) is the original lure coursing organization.Mirroring ASFA, the AKC also holds lure coursing events that function in a similar format to ASFA.Both organizations have three stakes: open, specials (AKC)/field champions (ASFA), and veterans.Both organizations judge on enthusiasm/overall ability, speed, follow, agility, and endurance.Generally, three dogs will run together. There are two points to consider when running AKC.First you have to apply for an AKC registration number, as AKC does not recognize your Greyhound’s NGA registration and you will need a purebred alternative listing (PAL) number from AKC. Secondly, even if your hound is certified by ASFA, the AKC requires them to be recertified unless the Greyhound has obtained their field championship title with ASFA.I do not understand the AKC certification rule; it seems silly that a certified hound must have to recertify, as any dog that competes in ASFA long enough should be able to obtain their field championship.
The final lure coursing organization is the National Lure Coursing Club (NLCC).This organization runs a brace elimination format.Again the hounds will run at least twice and up to four times.The brace elimination format calls for two hounds running together at a time.The loser of the course will fall into the B bracket and the winner will move on in the A bracket.The beauty of NLCC lure coursing is the judging.Lure coursing is a subjective running sport; however, NLCC makes it as objective as possible.Scoring is in a tally format meaning that the dog that wins the run up (distance to first turn) is awarded 2-3 points, the hound that gets to the next turn first is awarded 1 point, if a hound passes another hound they are awarded 2 points, and the hound that gets to the stopped lure first is awarded 1-2 points.I like this format, as it is easier to assess how your hound is doing on the course and understand the judge’s pick.
Photo Credit: Cindy Frezon
Another important point is that all these organizations have a singles stake.This is very important to beginners.The singles stake allows hounds to run without another dog.This allows the hound to become accustom to the lure and running longer distances.These hounds are scored by the criteria per the organization that they are running with.Generally hounds compete in singles a few times prior to getting their certification to compete in the open stakes.I recommend running in the singles stake as it gets you, the handler, in a competitive mind frame.You are no longer waiting for breaks or the end of the meet to run your hound but part of the meet and you have to follow the order of the meet.Placements are awarded for this stake as well.
I hope that now you know more about lure coursing and the options in your area. This is an incredibly fun sport for you and your Greyhound.I hope to see you on the field soon!
Hope you check back next week to learn more about amateur running sports for your hound.
Photo credit: Cindy Frezon Photography
Today I am going to take a break from my regular blog post.
Once a month I am going to dedicate a post to a Greyhound-friendly product that I love.I love to shop and have tried various products for my Greyhounds.I hope that my experience will help when you are deciding on what toys, collars, beds, and other hound needs to purchase.
If you have looked at the photos on this blog you know my Greyhounds love a good ball.
Balls are fair game in our house. You leave some brand new tennis balls lying around and you are sure to come back to some slobbery fuzz-less balls.Balls are king in our house for humans and hounds alike!
You may be thinking balls are a dime a dozen and there can’t be one ball better than all the rest.Well, I disagree!
When I look for a ball I want something that can easily be held in a Greyhound’s mouth, not too heavy and has some give; Jethro likes to squeeze and pump the balls in his mouth.The ball also needs to hold up against heavy use, chewing, be able to float, and can easily be cleaned.
Hands down the best ball meeting the criteria above is the Planet Dog Orbee-Tuff Orbee ball.This ball is shaped like a globe and the continents are elevated and textured which is fun for chewing.I thought those elevated continents were going to be goners but we have had this ball for about two years and the continents are still intact.This ball does have some give, comes in various sizes, and is not heavy.Orbee-Tuff toys are non-toxic and recyclable.They are made out of thermo plastic elastomer (TPE) and have Olefinic oil and Peppermint oil to soften the toy.The Peppermint oil also makes the toy and your Greyhound’s breath smell fresh.
This ball was a game changer.I use it most often for fetch, but if I need the boys to be extra good I will give one each of them and they will play and occupy themselves for extended periods of time.Darla is always extra good!
Last week I discussed why performance is historically important to the Greyhound. Without performance we would not have the Greyhound we know and love. I also discussed that coursing was where all Greyhound sport originated and explored some of the history of the breed. This week’s blog is about the recent history of the Greyhound in the U.S.
In the late 1800’s the Irish created park coursing, which used similar rules of coursing that were used in Britain; however, the size of the course was smaller. Many feel that this is when folks decided that even with shorter courses the greyhound was still exhilarating to watch. The Irish developed their coursing club in 1916.
The first mechanical lure was used in 1876. It was used in a 400-yard straight course. This was not found to be exciting and many spectators did not enjoy this type of sport. It took about 30 years for the mechanical lure to become popular.
In the meantime Greyhounds were coming into the United States. For the most part these dogs were settled out west to help with jackrabbit population control. Even General Custer was a fan of the Greyhound, using them as scouts prior to battle. You bet these Greyhounds were coursed out west!
In 1906 the National Greyhound Association (NGA) was organized. The NGA was responsible for registering Greyhounds in America and keeping up with Greyhound breedings.
In 1919 the first Greyhound track was opened in Emeryville, CA. This was designed by the entrepreneur Owen P. Smith and financed by George Sawyer. The track used a mechanical lure that was propelled by a motorized cart on the inside of a rail. The total length of the track was about 3/16th of a mile. These early races were poorly attended but Sawyer had an idea on how to fix this.
Sawyer encouraged Smith to introduce wagering and they began allowing wagering on races. While attendance increased, they were still unable to make money and the track ended up going bankrupt. Smith took his mechanical lure and went to Florida.
The World’s fastest greyhounds race at West Flagler Kennel Club, Miami, Florida from the Tichnor Brothers Collection at the Boston Public Library, Print Departmentlicensed by CC BY 2.0
Tracks were popping up throughout Florida in the 1930’s. These tracks were helpful for tax income throughout the Great Depression. More and more states allowed Greyhound racing to flourish. At Greyhound racing’s height it was the sixth most popular sport in America. However, often times when money changes hands undesirable attention comes.
There were speculations of illegal actives associated with greyhound racing. These speculations did not come to anything and did not hurt American Greyhound racing; it was at its height in the late 1980’s and early 1990’s.
Nightly gathering for greyhound racing, West Flagler Kennel Club, Miami, Florida from the Tichnor Brothers Collection at the Boston Public Library, Print Departmentlicensed by CC BY 2.0
In 1987 The American Greyhound Council (AGC) was created. The AGC oversees Greyhound welfare from puppyhood to retirement. The AGC inspects Greyhound farms to make sure they are within their guidelines for proper Greyhound care. Once the Greyhound arrives at the track there are state regulation in place for Greyhound welfare as well as track contracts that kennels must comply with to continue racing. The AGC follows the numbers of greyhound adoptions. They also follow the economic impact of greyhound racing.
The early 2000’s were a hard time for the racing. There were reports of mistreatment of Greyhounds throughout the news. There was also a decline in live betting. This caused multiple tracks to close their doors.
During these hard times, the people of Greyhound racing did not tuck their tails and run. They worked tirelessly with the AGC, adoption groups, and state regulatory bodies to ensure the welfare of the Greyhound and the integrity of racing. Currently 90% of all retired racing greyhound are adopted or returned to farms as pets or for breeding purposes, a much higher percentage than that of other dog adoption organizations in the U.S. The goal of AGC is to expand adoption efforts and increase that to 100%. This percentage is sure to increase as more and more people want Greyhounds as pets and more adoption organizations are willing to take on complex cases.
In addition to creating wonderful pets, Greyhound racing is important economically. It is estimated that the racing industry employs 14,000 people with an annual payroll of 194 million dollars. The racing industry also pays an estimated 86 million in taxes to federal, state, and local governments. The racing industry donates an estimated 6 million dollars to charities, including greyhound adoption groups.
Greyhound sports have always been the essential component of the Greyhound. Without coursing and racing, the dog that we love would most likely not be in existence. Continued support of athletic activities of the Greyhound is needed to promote this breed. Continued recognition of performance is essential to for us to be the best stewards of our breed. Thanks to the great work of AGC, adoption groups, and the NGA we are able to welcome these professional athletes into our homes to be wonderful companions. We all know that greyhounds give us fulfillment but we must remember that our Greyhounds need fulfillment as well. Greyhounds can find fulfillment in multiple ways but the most special is in their passion for the chase!
Pet Statistics: The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Retrieved from http://www.aspca.org/animal-homelessness/shelter-intake-and-surrender/pet-statistics
For many years it was thought that the Greyhound originated in Egypt and the Middle East. However, there were written accounts in the 1800’s stating that the Greyhounds originated from Celtic lands. In 2004 this was proven. The paper titled “The Genetic Structure of the Purebred dog” evaluated the molecular structure and differences in 85 breeds of dog. This study proved that the Greyhound, along with the Borzoi, Irish wolfhound, and other herding breeds, were of European descent and in fact were genetically different from the African and Middle Eastern sighthounds.
There are accounts of the Greyhound noted throughout British history. In Shakespeare’s play King Henry V, Shakespeare uses the Greyhound in the King’s monologues prior to battle. Henry V said to his men, “I see you stand like greyhounds in the slips, straining upon the start. The game’s afoot.” Shakespeare compared Henry V’s armies to Greyhounds because he knew the keenness, tenacity, and passion of the Greyhound.
The Tudor family was also fond of the Greyhound. Henry the VII’s coat of arms included both a red dragon as well as a white Greyhound. Henry the VIII had a great love of coursing, then called hunting. It is noted that he converted some of his land into a course and it was used by two coursing societies. However, that land has now been repurposed into a golf course.
From The Greyhound & the Hare
In the sixteenth century Queen Elizabeth I and Lord Norfolk developed the first coursing rules, “The laws of the leash.” These rules formalized the rules for coursing, focusing on the scoring of the Greyhound’s performance, rules for the slipper, and the handling of the hare.
Coursing focuses on the Greyhound’s greatest skill, the speediness of the chase. More points are awarded to the Greyhound for speed and ability to pass another Greyhound than actually taking-out the hare.
Throughout the Tudor reign, the Forest Laws were in effect; these laws were established in the middle ages and strictly enforced by William the Conqueror. People and dogs caught breaking these laws were mutilated and often times killed.
Coursing continued to be a sport of the nobles, waxing and waning in popularity throughout the reigns of Charles I and II. During the reign of George the III, in the eighteenth century, coursing no longer was a private sport for the nobles but a sport for gentlemen. Most of the participants coursed either Greyhounds or Whippets and made wagers on their hounds.
In 1776 The Lord of Orford in Swaffham, England created the first coursing club. The original “laws of the leash” created by Lord Norfolk were still in effect and used. Interest in coursing grew and more and more clubs originated.
From The Greyhound & the Hare
By the time of the industrial revolution, more people had free time and money to participate in hobby sports. Coursing was also much cheaper than foxhunting. Greyhounds and Greyhound coursing took off. Participants of the sport realized that if they had a winning hound there was additional income for breeding and selling puppies. While these breedings were documented within the kennels, there was not an official Greyhound stud-book until 1882.
So why is this a big deal? Coursing gave us the modern day Greyhound. The competition of coursing created a well-engineered dog that was thrilling to watch and fast. The history of our beloved Greyhound gives us more insight into why people continued to breed Greyhounds and created the Greyhound that lives with us today.
There is still more to the story. With the invention of the mechanical lure Greyhound Racing was created. I will talk about racing in part two of this series, stay tuned!
Parker, H. G., Kim, L. V., Sutter, N. B., Carlson, S., Lorentzen, T. D., Malek, T. B., … & Kruglyak, L. (2004). Genetic structure of the purebred domestic dog. science, 304(5674), 1160-1164.
A few days ago I wrote an article about what it means to adopt a Greyhound. Overall this article was well received. However, some comments I found thought provoking. I also reviewed other posts throughout social media and there continued to be a theme: what is the standard for a greyhound and why that matters to you as an owner.
The American Kennel Club (AKC) judges each breed of dog based on a written standard. You can review the AKC written standard for greyhounds below.
Head – Long and narrow, fairly wide between the ears, scarcely perceptible stop, little or no development of nasal sinuses, good length of muzzle, which should be powerful without coarseness. Teeth very strong and even in front. Ears – Small and fine in texture, thrown back and folded, except when excited, when they are semi-pricked. Eyes – Dark, bright, intelligent, indicating spirit. Neck – Long, muscular, without throatiness, slightly arched, and widening gradually into the shoulder. Shoulders – Placed as obliquely as possible, muscular without being loaded. Forelegs – Perfectly straight, set well into the shoulder, neither turned in or out, pasterns strong. Chest -Deep, and as wide as is consistent with speed, Fairly well sprung ribs. Back – Muscular and broad. Loins – Good depth of muscle, well-arched, well cut up in the flanks. Hindquarters – Long, very muscular and powerful, wide and well let down, well-bent stifles. Hocks well bent and rather close to the ground, wide but straight fore and aft. Feet – Hard and close, rather more hare than cat feet, well knuckled up with good strong claws. Tail – Long, fine and tapering with a slight upward curve. Coat – Short, smooth and firm in texture. Color – Immaterial Weight – Dogs, 65 to 70 pounds: Bitches, 60 to 65 pounds
If you are like me when you read this, it sounds very similar to what you see in a National Greyhound Association (NGA) greyhound. First, what is the difference between the AKC and NGA? Both are registering bodies; however, the NGA is special as they only register greyhounds. All American racing greyhounds are registered with the NGA. The NGA doesn’t have a written breed standard so to speak; rather, NGA greyhounds are bred to a performance standard, meaning they are judged on their ability to excel in running sports. When we look at the AKC written standard for the breed, the NGA greyhound fits the description in that standard. So why do we find ourselves disagreeing on the breed standard again and again? The answer is rather complicated. I think that show breeders thought that breeding a greyhound with exaggerated structural features was sexy and the dog would be able to compete in the group and best in show ring at dog shows. They succeeded. There is no functional purpose or advantage for the exaggerated changes we see in most greyhounds that compete in the show ring.
Actually, dogs that are exaggerated are not good for our breed and here is why. These dogs are not functional in that they are deficient in athletic ability. They are able to participate in running sports but unable to compete on the same level with coursing-bred greyhounds or racing greyhounds. If you read into the written standard above you will understand all these qualities are desirable because they improve the greyhound’s speediness and athleticism. By exaggerating the structural features called for in the written standard we are taking the functionality and the most important part of the greyhound away.
I have listened and read comments about show greyhounds and see things such as “isn’t she beautiful” or “she’s living art”. I appreciate these opinions but I want to know if they have ever seen a greyhound running after a lure or quarry. Have they ever seen true poetry in motion?
I am not sure that I will ever feel that a hound standing in a ring is more lovely than a hound doing what they were bred to do for centuries. I will never see how loping in a ring can be more beautiful than raw power on the coursing field or sand being flung all over the track by a hound that can scoot.
I understand that dog shows are a lot of fun to a lot of people. I wish we would see more functional dogs at these shows. I proudly support the breeders that are promoting functional hounds and I hope that in the future at Greyhound specialties you will not see a dog win breed in the ring that is not able to compete in the field but instead a Greyhound that can win in the ring and on the lure coursing field.
As stewards of our breed we must advocate for functionality. Our focus should not be on what can win the group and best in show ring but what can make a hare turn and break track records. We simply must focus on the raw power of our breed; after all, it’s why they are still with us.
Official Standard of the Greyhound. c/o The American Kennel Club. Retrieved December 1st, 2016 from http://images.akc.org/pdf/breeds/standards/Greyhound.pdf_ga=1.268297802.576806201.1479637347
One of the best parts of greyhound ownership is the lack of grooming they require.Greyhounds are wash and wear dogs.They do not need a lot of brushing, trimming, or bathing.However, their nails do need some attention.
First things first, what is a nail?The nail is protective covering of the bones and vessels under the tip of the foot.Nails are made up of a strong fibrous protein called keratin.This protein is also found in skin and hair.Nails protect the tip of the foot from damage and help with gripping while running.
So what happens if your greyhound’s nails are too long?Well, multiple issues can occur.The most concerning issues are the changes to the gait associated with long nails.When the nail is touching the ground this puts pressure on the bones of the foot.
Remember the old saying about greyhounds? “A greyhound should be headed like a snake and necked like a drake, backed like a beam, sided like a bream, footed like a cat and tailed like a rat”.This poem should be taken to heart when thinking about the greyhound foot.When the nails of the hound are too long it creates an uneven balance of pressure in the foot.This pressure lengthens the ligaments in the foot causing the toes to appear longer and the dog to not walk properly.This can also be painful.
Pressure sores or decubitus ulcers can also occur with overgrown nails.The overgrown nails come in contact with the thin skin of the foot and can cause breakdown.This can lead to infection and can be very painful to the dog.Pressure sores are difficult to heal.The offending agent or pressure has to be removed so that the wound can heal properly.
You can see why nail care is important but what do you need to trim nails?I recommend plier-style clippers with a safety stop.I find that guillotine clippers are difficult to use.Guillotine clippers do not give you the control of the scissor clipper.It is also more difficult to see what you are doing while trimming the nails.You should also buy septic powder.This is good to have on hand in case you do nick the nail quick.Remember to hold pressure to stop the bleeding as best as you can then apply this. Septic powder works best on dry surfaces.Grinding tools are also useful tools to have in your nail bag.They can file the nail down and if you are worried about the quick there is no clipping involved.I would recommend grinding nails outside and with a mask on and eye protection.Also move the tool over the nail as it will heat up. Continued pressure in one spot will heat the nail and can be painful to the greyhound.
So you have your tools but how do you successful clip greyhound nail?I understand that nail clipping can be scary.We know all too well that there is a sensitive quick in the nail and clipping it can cause bleeding and pain for the dog.Well friends, I have news for you.If you look at your hound’s foot you can easily spot the quick even on black nails.
Once you know where the quick is you make you first cut at about 45-60 degrees.I recommend then making two additional cuts to the side of the nail to make sure you have removed all the overgrowth.Once this is completed you can file the nail with an emery board or grinding tool.A rule of thumb for nail length is that you should be able to slide a credit card under the dogs nail while standing
Most retired racers are well accustomed to nail clipping as this was a regular part of their routine. However, if your hound is not so cool with the idea of clippers coming close to their toes some positive reinforcement could help. I find that using a plastic toy stuffed with food will keep a hound busy while clipping. The clicker could also be used for this. Creating a positive association with the clipper can be helpful with a lot of dogs. Remember to channel your inner leader while nail clipping, dog can sense if you are not confident in your skills. Getting you and your hound accustom to nail clipping can take some time but well worth the effort!
I hope that this has been helpful to you and you now ready to clip you hound’s nails with confidence!
