Of course, Greyhounds are runners! Running is the reason we have the modern Greyhound. But Greyhounds are not bred for the type of running most human runners do. Here are a few ideas on how to transition your sprinter into your best running buddy.
Is there a difference in sprinting and distance running?
Yes! Just like it takes time to work up to a 5K, 10K, or 10 miler it is going to be a process for your hound as well. The first step to is make sure your Greyhound is sound and does not have an old injury or arthritis that could cause him pain with increased activity.
I recommend starting with the walk run method based the distance of his current/previous walks. Be sure to keep a close eye on his toenails—they should be short!
Be sure to bring water and poop bags. No one likes a dog owner who is not responsible and does not clean up after his or her pet.
Consider a hands free leash. I don’t like carrying a leash when running. There are plenty of good options to try. I prefer options with a handle so you can grab the dog quickly if needed.
How much exercise is too much
I have a very energetic go-go Greyhound and when he becomes disinterested I know we need to slow down and head home. Look for simple clues from your hound. They will let you know when they are done.
Keep in mind, your Greyhound may not be able to run that 10K with you and that is fine. I run a loop around the house and will pick-up/drop-off the dog depending on what I am planning to do and how he is looking/acting.
My dog sniffs constantly—what do I do?
Darla is a sniffer and it drives me NUTS. She is not a good dog to run with.
I try to let Darla be the dog she is. Someone once told me taking your dog out and not letting them sniff is like taking a kindergartener to the zoo and not letting them ask questions—close to torture in the doggie/kindergartener world. When I hike or walk with D I give her plenty of smell breaks but I try to control when these break occur so we can actually get some exercise!
Does anyone ever feel like ever changing science makes it
hard to do the right thing?
Due to ongoing scientific inquiry things are always
changing.
Believe it or not there is a lot of science that goes into dog kibble. Love it or hate it the government and private corporations study dog food and negative/positive outcomes associated with what we feed our pets. Recently the FDA was alerted to 524 cases of dilated cardiomyopathy (DCM) occurring between January 2014 and April 2019.
So you might be wondering why the FDA is monitoring this. The FDA depends of reports from consumers to investigate concerns and felt that this trend was concerning. While DCM is not considered to be a rare disease it affects certain breeds disproportionately. And the new cases were unsettling.
The animals affected, while a small number, were not animals (breed or sex) that typically get DCM.
When my vet brought this to my attention in April and I was floored. The kibble I was feeding was on the list and I didn’t even purchase it because it was grain-free. I selected it based on “quality.”
Currently, there is not a 100% link between grain-free diets and DCM, however, the takeaway for pet owners is that there may be a link and we need more data. Sure, there are all types of confounders that were not considered within this report but nevertheless trends are important. Another important consideration is that reporting oftentimes is low and does not represent the entire landscape that has been affected. Reporting is not required by law and takes time.
I switched my Greyhounds to a new kibble and things are going well. I trust my vet and her recommendations. If you have concerns about what kibble is best for your pup discuss diet with your vet. Vets understand animal nutrition and have your pet’s best interest in mind.
We all have certain parts of our day that we look forward to. I look forward to the mornings. I love my first cup of coffee and my walk. Exercise is very important for me. Exercising keeps me upbeat and energetic.
When I adopted Jethro I was told that he would need hardly any exercise and that Greyhounds are lazy. I remember hearing that a few good sprints per week would be plenty for him. This was a foreign idea to me. I had only owned terriers prior to owning Jethro and they required a lot of exercise or they were impossible to live with. But hey, Clint and I wanted a low maintenance dog so maybe my instincts were wrong.
Life with Jethro started off on the wrong foot. Jethro was a creature of habit and the lack of structure in his new environment was overwhelming for him. Prior to adopting Jethro, I had read an article that suggested waiting to start obedience with a retired racer so that they would be more bonded to you when you started. I felt that I should start training his ASAP but wanted to follow the advice of other more experienced Greyhound owners. Needless to say, Jethro became a very frustrated Greyhound that needed a routine and an outlet for his energy.
After a month of struggling with our new situation, I registered Jethro in obedience class. Our local obedience class was filled with small, yappy, fluffy dogs and big barking dogs in need of some manners. Jethro was freaked out. Fortunately, the trainer knew a thing or two about Greyhounds and hooked up us with another couple that adopted a Greyhound. The humans and the dogs hit it off! Jethro and Champ would get to work in a smaller group that was quite. I picked up some training techniques and felt that I could get Jethro where he needed to be. We started practicing at home.
I stopped reading about Greyhounds and started searching for articles on training headstrong independent dogs. Jethro’s life became very structured. We walked every morning and practiced training exercises at night. I realized Jethro and I both needed a routine if our relationship was going to work out. Walking and training Jethro was great! It stimulated our bond and also helped to alleviate some of his anxiety!
I added Darla to the mix and she loved exercise. I would often walk Darla alone to help with her leash manners when she did something good, I would run with her as her reward. She loved this and we still use running as a reward!
When Sashi came home I was not sure what to expect. I heard that Greyhound pups were land-sharks and difficult. However, I found Sashi’s puppyhood very enjoyable, as long as he was exercised. Sashi had an affinity for chewing on high-end leather goods. I learned quickly that a tired pup with nice meaty bone doesn’t eat your leather accessories. Sashi needed a lot of exercised. My nightly routine included making a vodka and tonic, sitting in a lawn chair, and throwing a ball until Sashi was pooped!
Exercise makes us all feel good, even dogs. Exercise recommendation for dogs varies by breed. Generally speaking, dogs need 30 minutes to 2 hours of exercise per day. It’s hard to say that all Greyhounds need the same amount of exercise per day. As dogs physiologically adapt to exercise—At first, the Greyhound may only be able to walk for 20 minutes but gradually adding time is important to achieve a balanced exercise program. While Greyhounds do enjoy lying around they still need exercise. Exercise is important to their physical and mental well-being.
Even if your dog doesn’t have behavioral problems and isn’t overweight there is nothing like smelling where the neighborhood cat has been and the pee of all the dogs that peed on that scrub before yours!
Southeastern Greyhound Adoption (SEGA) hosts an annual Athletes helping Athletes 5K—this year is our 10th anniversary! In addition to the 5K we also have a fun one-mile walk that you can bring your Greyhounds on. There is nothing simpler or sweeter than getting out and walking with your Greyhound. I hope to see all you Metro Atlanta Greyhound lovers at the 5K! If you are planning to attend the 5K register here and use the code RUN4FUN17. The first 10 people to use the code will get 5$ off their race registration! I look forward to seeing you and your Greyhound at the 5K!
I love wounds. My love for wound care began when I was a brand new nurse working in the ICU. Wounds are challenging to care for. Despite many innovations, wounds can be difficult to heal. I like a challenge it seemed natural for me to find wound healing fascinating. I am always amazed by the body’s capacity to heal itself. But more than the challenge of wound healing, I enjoy the always-advancing treatment options in wound medicine. Wound treatment continues to look for more effective and efficient methods for wound healing.
In human medicine, we have sophisticated options for wound treatment. These technologies are being utilized in vet medicine as well. Dogs do seem to have an upper hand on us humans–they are better a healing. Their bodies seem well prepared to deal with wounds and more resistant to infection. However, dogs can get some nasty wounds that need intervention.
Today I want to talk about topical agents that are most commonly used in wound treatment. By now we have all heard of honey and sugardene dressings and antibiotic dressings but how do the work? How do these treatments advance wound healing and are there any other options to help wounds heal?
First, let’s talk about wounds. There are many different types of wounds but the pathophysiology is similar in all. The first stage of wound healing is the inflammatory stage. This is when inflammatory markers are attracted to the wound through vasodilation. These cells are working to stop the bleeding and rid the body of any infections. In the second stage of wound healing, collagen fibers are forming. These fibers need oxygen and vitamins to create granulation (new) tissue. A wound must have granulation before epithelialization or the connection of epithelial cells occurs. In the final phase of wound healing, the body continues to lay down college fibers, creating a scar.
02/07/17 prior to Zinc treatments
03/03/2017 after one month of zinc treatments
One key part of wound healing is oxygenation of tissue. Generally speaking oxygenation of our tissue comes from our blood via the arterial system. The same thing occurs in wounds. The goal of wound management is to dress the wound with a material that will aid in oxygenation. That seems easy enough but there is one problem, necrotic tissue. The necrotic or dead tissue is kryptonite for wound healing–sometimes this has to be manually removed or debrided. The goal of wound care is to select a dressing to cover the wound that will prevent tissue death, keep the wound bed moist, and support healing.
Now let’s talk about antimicrobial dressings. Antimicrobial dressings generally contain iodine. Iodine prevents infection. Sugardene is a mixture of sugar and iodine and an example of this. While these agents prevent and treat infection, they do little to aid in re-epithelialization. Antimicrobial dressings would be great for an abscess or dirty wound. This dressing aids in healing by preventing infection.
Another popular dressing that has gained a lot of attention is Manuka honey. Manuka honey is a raw honey made by bees that pollinate the Manuka bush in New Zealand. This dressing is thought to both be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. There are some that reports that suggest wounds do heal faster with Manuka Honey than antibiotic mediums. The use of honey as a wound dressing has been practiced for many years and considered an effective treatment. Honey is also cost effective.
The last dressing that I want to mention is Zinc. Zinc is not an antimicrobial it is a trace element found in the human body. Zinc is an antioxidant that helps with oxygenation of the wound bed. This increased oxygenation in the wound bed is thought to help with re-epithelialization, aiding in wound healing.
03/18/17 six weeks after zinc treatments
I have used all of these topicals for wounds at one time or another. I am a fan of zinc for pressure ulcers in Greyhounds. As you can see in these photos above, Zinc increased granulation tissue, allowing the wound bed to close. Zinc was a game changer for us.
All of these dressings have their purpose. It is hard to compare them head to head as their properties are different, what might work for a large leg ulcer may not help a minor abrasion or infected wound.
Wounds are challenging. The points to remember when dealing with wounds is to keep the wound bed oxygenated by preventing/removing necrotic tissue—selecting the appropriate wound dressing is essential. When in doubt or if a wound is not healing see a soft tissue vet. I have been blown away by the knowledge of our soft tissue vet as well as their continued patience for wound healing.
In addition to using the best wound dressing for the wound at hand, ensure that your Greyhound is using an appropriate bed. If pressure ulcers are a concern make sure bony prominences cannot be felt on the underside of the bed, I am a huge fan of these beds to prevent pressure sores. Finally, ensure that your Greyhound is receiving the best nutrition possible as wounds heal from the inside out!
Here is a video of Jethro’s bandage change. I hope you all find it helpful. And yes, Jethro is a very good boy!
Broughton G 2nd, Janis JE, Attinger CE. Wound healing: an overview. Plast Reconstr Surg. 2006 Jun. 117(7 Suppl):1e-S-32e-S
Gupta, M., Mahajan, V. K., Mehta, K. S., & Chauhan, P. S. (2014). Zinc Therapy in Dermatology: A Review. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2014, 709152. http://doi.org/10.1155/2014/709152
Sood, A., Granick, M. S., & Tomaselli, N. L. (2014). Wound Dressings and Comparative Effectiveness Data. Advances in Wound Care, 3(8), 511–529. http://doi.org/10.1089/wound.2012.0401
By now I hope you all have heard that April is Adopt a Greyhound Month. I have been racking my brain over what to post to best advertise for these amazing creatures. It’s hard to pick out one thing that sets the Greyhound apart from other dogs—they have so many lovely traits. But as I am sitting here typing with Darla’s head in my lap it came to me.
Greyhounds get us. Greyhound-type dogs are one of the oldest dogs. They have lived with humans for thousands of years. Genetically speaking the Greyhound understands humans probably better than we understand our Greyhounds.
The fact that the Greyhound has been around humans for so long plays into why we are attracted to these dogs. I think that we cognitively recognize Greyhounds as the dog prototype. Due to our long years getting acquainted the physical aspects of the Greyhound they feel natural to us. Greyhounds are also good at following our cues making us feel like they truly understand. And who doesn’t desire to be understood—Darla gets me better than any human!
The ability of a Greyhound to place their head in your lap, you tussle their ears and they look up at you with innocent loving eyes speaks to our heartstrings. Couple these traits with their ability to co-exist well with other Greyhounds, easy upkeep, and temperament and you have the ultimate dog-living companion.
In addition to the Greyhound’s long history of living with humans they are also independent fearless dogs (generally speaking). I have posted on how difficult this independence can be when training but it is nice to have a dog that can entertain itself and not be constantly underfoot—unless you are making dinner, breakfast, a snack, lunch, or if the refrigerator door opens!
But don’t mistake their independence for being aloof. Greyhounds have a passion for life, their people, food, and for running. Greyhounds are passionate creatures. I love this passion. I love that I can fire up my Greyhound and he will prance like a pony, jump, and then do zoomies! There is nothing better!
Some folks think that Greyhound just lay around all day and I have to say that Greyhounds do enjoy lazy afternoon but most of all they enjoy showing off that big passionate heart. Just watch a Greyhound run in an open field; anyone can see the passion the Greyhound has for running and being in the countryside!
Video Credit: David Lowery
I wish everyone could experience how great it is to own a retired racer. These low maintenance dogs are all around amazing but when they are showing off their passion there is simply nothing sweeter on this planet!
I hope you consider adopting a Greyhound. If you are in the Atlanta area please check out Southeastern Greyhound Adoption, by clicking here.
Am I the only Greyhound owner who gets annoyed when asked if my Greyhound was rescued? It really gets under my skin and it seems to happen far too often. The other day we were buying dog food and I was asked if my Greyhound was “rescued.” I was in a particularly rotten mood and my husband elbowed me as to say “please do not unleash your bad mood on this poor kid.” I put my bad mood aside and replied, “No, they were not rescued and yes they are racing Greyhounds.” The kid looked perplexed but continued to bag our goods and not ask for more clarification.
I feel continually frustrated about the misinformation that makes its way into the mainstream. It seems like the anti-racing (AR) propaganda penetrates so deeply that it has affected many people, even people who own Greyhounds.
This past week I read two articles in two different papers in North America stating complete inaccuracies about Greyhound racing and the lives of racing Greyhounds. By no means am I saying there are no failings in the Greyhound racing industry and that it is perfect. However, I feel that the vast majority of people working in the Greyhound racing industry love Greyhounds and respect the breed for what it is: a functional, fast, exceptional hound.
If you are into Greyhound adoption and have not visited a track, you’re missing out. I am lucky to be a part of a Greyhound Adoption group that arranges yearly visits to racing kennels and tracks encouraging adopters to see what life was like for their Greyhound before adoption.
It is important to be thoughtful about our opinions, and knowing the details of both sides is important to understand the entirety of a subject. Unfortunately, it seems that most of the AR supporters cannot see past outdated reports of abuse and neglect to see the positive changes in Greyhound racing today. It oftentimes seems overwhelming to educate the general public and some Greyhound enthusiasts that racing Greyhounds are loved, well exercised, well fed and happy in their professional careers.
There are certain ideas created and propagated by the AR machine about retired racing Greyhounds that have invaded mainstream Greyhound adoption. One idea is that skittish dogs were abused throughout their professional careers. This idea is complete rubbish. First off, by now we all know that negative training is not successful. Why would someone spend thousands of dollars on a dog that could create revenue and abuse it, thus diminishing their chances of success? Complete insanity. Furthermore, dogs have different personalities just like us. I have raised a fair number of terrier pups and for the most part they are fearless dogs, but I have seen dogs be gun shy or timid with no external cause for them to demonstrate that behavior. Skittish Greyhounds are most likely that way do to nature not nurture.
Another idea that makes me nuts is the raw meat myth. Feeding raw meat is not a bad thing! Dogs are predators and they are made to eat raw meat. Now, let’s talk about non-human grade meat. The labeling of meat is not just based on the quality of the product but also the facility it is made it. Lots meat packing facilities have quality products but have not obtained certification from the USDA to mark their product as “human grade.” Most pet foods are not made for human consumption, as the regulations and certification for this labeling would be very expensive, increasing the cost of pet food. It’s just not a logical business move. Thus, the non-human grade meat myth should be a moot point from now on.
Opinions and facts are not the same; however, opinions create gut responses and bias. When dredging through the misinformation about Greyhound racing it is important to push our bias aside and get at the truth. I support Greyhound racing for many reasons and as I have seen and learned more about the industry my support grows. I hope that this article encourages you to reinvestigate your feelings about Greyhound racing immersing yourself in facts and not opinions.
Besides poop-bags, the other most commonly used product for the greyhound is a collar.When you adopt your greyhound most likely they will be equipped with a muzzle and a martingale collar.
When I got my first greyhound I read a lot about the martingale collar.Everyone seemed to recommend this as greyhounds have skinny necks and can “back out of their collars.” What I was not clear on was that martingale collars should only be used for training or walking.
Unfortunately I found this out the hard way.One day Jethro and Darla were playing.They both had on martingale collars.Something happened and Jethro got Darla’s collar wrapped around his mouth.He was struggling to free himself and choking Darla in the process.Both Greyhounds were squealing and I was freaking out.I knew I had to act quickly.The saving grace was that Darla’s collar was too big and by a miracle I was able to pull Jethro close enough to Darla to give the collar some slack and pull it over her head.Darla and Jethro were OK; however, this could have ended in disaster if I had not been right there.I vowed only to use a Martingale collars while training.
Greyhounds can be flight risks and per their adoption agreement they need collars on all the time.I was frustrated with what I was going to do.
I first ordered leather fishtail collars.These collars are beautiful and I love to see Greyhounds sporting these collars, as they look so regal.Overall they are very effective but there was one drawback.My hounds are quite rambunctious and they have been known to take a notion to jump in the pool with a collar on.Their leather collars were quite worn at about a year.Sashi has been banned from leather.He chewed through one collar and did some damage to another.There had to be a better product.
One day I was watching a Greyhound race and noticed that the Greyhounds were being walked to the starting box with plastic buckle collars. I found Gun Dog Supply online and ordered a TufFlex collar for Sashi.These collars also included a brass nameplate that is riveted to the collar.They gave off a plastic smell when I first opened the package, but it dissipated overnight.
I love love love these TufFlex collars.Now all three Greyhounds wear these collars.They are easy to clean, pick up no odor from the dogs, and fit incredibly well.My Greyhounds cannot back out of these collars as long as they are adjusted in the correct position.I have been using these collars for about one year and can’t say anything negative about them.
However, for most Greyhounds the safest walking collar is a martingale. If you are concerned that you will forget to take it on and off, I highly recommend buying a martingale with a buckle. I have used these collars in the past and they are effective but get dirty quickly–or maybe Sashi just gets dirty quickly!
I hope that one of these collar options suits you and your Greyhound!
Today’s post is from guest writer Audrey Hsia. Audrey is a Greyhound enthusiast. She owns Greyhounds, Hungarian Greyhounds or Magyar Agars, and Dachshunds. Audrey’s knowledge on Greyhounds and running sports is extensive. She has been a wonderful resource to me as I have expanded my knowledge on the caring and keeping of Greyhounds. I hope you all enjoy this post as much as I did.
Open Field Coursing, or OFC as it is called by most participants, is a competitive field sport for sighthounds in which the dogs are set on live, wild jackrabbits and judged on their ability to pursue the hares. Although competitive coursing in the United States dates back to about the 1860’s, modern open field coursing originated in the 1960’s with the founding of the National Open Field Coursing Association (NOFCA). NOFCA was and remains the primary sanctioning body for open field coursing in the United States, but there are several other smaller groups organizing coursing events as well. These include the North American Coursing Association (NACA) and The Coursing Conservancy (TCC).
No matter which group is putting on the coursing meeting, the format is largely the same. OFC meetings can be either one of two types: breed stakes or mixed stakes. Breed stakes, as the name implies, are stakes where only breed is competing against itself. Mixed stakes are open to all sighthound breeds that are recognized by the sanctioning body, and dogs entered are competing against each other regardless of breed. Stakes are advertised as either breed stakes or mixed stakes prior to the running of the meeting; that way participants can choose to run their dogs only in breed stakes, only in mixed stakes, or both types as they please. In order to make a valid stake of either type, there must be at least five dogs entered to fill all of the placements.
Photo Credit: George Bell
Before the coursing meeting begins, all participants will meet at a designated location, usually a restaurant or gas station located near the field where the dogs will be running. At that point, roll call will be conducted and if the stake is large enough (15+ dogs), dogs will be divided into separate fields with separate judges. Once roll call is complete the courses are drawn into trios or braces at random. Each dog in a course is assigned a colored blanket (yellow, pink or blue), which the judge will use to identify the dogs during each course.
After all that prep work is done, everyone gets in their cars and drives out to the field. With few exceptions, the courses will be run in the order they were drawn. The course that is up is called to the front, while all the other participants line up behind to form a gallery, which will help to flush out the hares as the line moves forward.
Once a hare is raised, the huntmaster will assess whether or not all the dogs are sighted on it and/or whether or not it is likely to result in a viable course. Assuming all dogs are sighted and everything else is promising the huntmaster will yell “Tally ho!” signaling to the handlers that they may release their dogs. The judge, who is either walking alongside the gallery, or perched on top of a hill or tall vehicle will then observe the course and score the dogs on their performance. The dogs are scored using a category scoring format with each category being worth a certain amount of points. Categories include things like speed, agility, and endurance, with extra points being awarded to dogs who touch, take or attempt the take the hare. Unlike traditional English or Irish coursing, American open field coursing places a fair amount of value on dogs making kills during their courses. In fact, most if not all American OFC titles require that the dog make at least one kill during its career in order to make champion.
Preparation for open field coursing is very labor intensive for the dogs and handlers. Due to the unpredictable nature of the sport, it is imperative that the dogs be as physically fit as possible. Courses can go on for several minutes, and the hares frequently lead the dogs into terrain that can be difficult to navigate safely. As such, the best thing a handler can do to prepare a dog for open field coursing is to bring it up from a young age in preparation for the sport. This means giving their puppies ample opportunity to explore and exercise on varied terrain so that they can learn how to use their bodies safely and efficiently while they are still young and haven’t reached their peak speed. As adults, daily conditioning is essential especially if your dog is not competing on a regular basis to help maintain their fitness. Brisk walks, road work, and opportunities to gallop are all very good ways to keep a dog conditioned for open field coursing.
Besides preparing your dog physically for an OFC meeting, there are many other things you need to prepare for a day in the field. Comfortable walking shoes are a must, as OFC meetings can go from sun-up to sundown if hares are not plentiful. Depending on the terrain, you may also want to invest in chaps or gaiters to protect your legs from thorns and weeds which you may encounter while trying to flush the hares from their hiding places. Dressing in layers is also advisable, as temperatures can fluctuate throughout the day. Investing in a comfortable backpack or hunting vest is also a must, as you will need to carry plenty of water for you and your dog, as well as snacks, a first aid kit, coursing blankets, extra leashes, slip leads, and a GPS or other tracking device if you choose to use one.
Overall, Open Field Coursing is a challenging sport, but for those who make the effort it is guaranteed to be rewarding in a way that no other sighthound sport can be.
Today I am continuing my series on amateur running sports for Greyhounds.In addition to racing and lure coursing I wanted to write about Open Field Coursing (OFC).I did not feel I was a good person to write about OFC, as I have never been to an event (most are out west).It was suggested to have a guest writer post on OFC, and I thought that was a great idea.Next week you will be hearing from Audrey Hsia about OFC and greyhounds.I hope you all enjoy it!
Back to this week’s post on NOTRA or oval racing organized by the National Oval Track Racing Association.So what is NOTRA?NOTRA is oval racing.The hounds are usually boxed at the start but can be hand slipped.The distance of the track is between 241 yards and 440 yards.Greyhounds run three programs in one day.Generally 4 hounds run together, although depending on the number of entrants this can change.To have a Greyhound meet there must be at least two Greyhounds entered.Just like in LGRA or sprint racing, the Greyhound that reaches the finish line first wins.Also, winning and placing Greyhounds earn points that accumulate allowing them to earn titles.
NOTRA requires a little more thought from the Greyhound than LGRA or sprint racing.The Greyhound needs to make a path to get around the track.Some go immediately to the rail while others tend to run mid track and can make up time in the back stretch of the track.Each dog is different and will generally prefer a certain location on the track.The running style of different Greyhounds is fascinating to watch.If you go to a few meets you will see you dogs’ style develop and they will learn more with each run.
Photo Credit: Trent Rees
What do you need for NOTRA?You need a muzzle and the same 1-4 racing blankets you bought for LGRA.You also need to talk with the race secretary prior, as first time entries will need to be re–registered through NOTRA (your NGA number is fine).Your hound will need to be certified as well – if you Greyhound ran professionally generally they are good to go – but please check with the race secretary prior to the meet. If you have never boxed your Greyhound, it might be a good idea to practice this a few times prior to your first official meet.
As always, make sure you are aware of any injuries your Greyhound may have had on the pro track. Make sure that your Greyhound is at racing weight and well conditioned. Also, please check with your vet before beginning in amateur running sports to make sure your Greyhound is healthy enough to sustain these activities.
NOTRA is a lot of fun.You are able to see your Greyhound’s mind work as they improve with each trip around the track.I also feel that NOTRA reinforces that racing is not a bad or cruel sport but fun and Greyhounds love it.
I hope this has been helpful and you consider trying NOTRA with your Greyhound in the future.
Please check back next week for the final post in the amateur running sports series on Open Field Coursing by Audrey Hsia.
I hope you all found the lure coursing piece useful and fun.Today I want to discuss sprint racing, also know as LGRA as it is organized by the large gazehound racing association.
LGRA is a favorite of mine.I love the raw speed that sprint racing provides.I also like LGRA because the fastest dog wins, which removes any subjectivity from the event.However, it is not perfect.Today I will talk about what LGRA racing is and what you should think about if you decide this is the sport for you and your hound.
First, make sure you are aware of any injuries your Greyhound may have had on the pro track.Make sure that your Greyhound is at racing weight and well conditioned.As always, please check with your vet before beginning in amateur running sports to make sure your Greyhound is healthy enough to sustain these activities.
OK, now what is LGRA? LGRA is a sprint race of 200 yards with three programs. Generally four dogs compete in each race, this number can change depending on the entrants. Dogs are usually boxed at the start just like in pro racing and then they chase a drag lure for 200 yards.The hound that gets to the finish line first wins the race.LGRA is simple and a blast to watch.My dogs love it!Based on the number of entries, the dogs are awarded points.The larger the entry the more points for the winner and placing dogs.Once your dog has accumulated enough points they are able to obtain titles.(I have never seen a Greyhound get excited about a title, but the competition is fun for the owners.)
Photo Credit: Carl Doby
Besides having a fit dog, you need a muzzle and racing blankets for LGRA (1-4). Usually there are plenty of experienced Greyhound people at these events and will allow you to borrow blankets or muzzles if needed. Prior to arriving at the meet you need to contact the race secretary to register your dog and check if they need a certification run.Dogs that have raced in NOTRA or have raced professionally generally do not need a certification. However, it might be helpful to run some practice runs prior to your official meet to see how things work and get the hang of boxing your Greyhound.
I overall enjoy LGRA racing.I like that LGRA focuses on raw speed – the Greyhound does not have to consider manipulating turns or when is the best time to really turn up the speed.There are two things that I wish were different.I wish the length of the sprint were longer.I feel that Greyhounds are just getting up to top speed when the race is over and another 100 yards would be better for a lot of Greyhounds.I also wish there was a trap for the lure.When the lure stops, after the sprint with plenty of run out (area for the Greyhound to decelerate) all the dogs clobber the lure.Removing a Greyhound off a lure is very difficult and I have a very small bitch.I cannot imagine having to manipulate a 65+ pound Greyhound off a lure!
LGRA is rather safe, as it is a straight line without any turns; however, these Greyhounds are running hard and as with any strenuous athletic activity, injuries can occur.As always check your Greyhound’s feet after each run.If the ground is hard and you are wrapping pads, it is important to remove the vetrap after each run to make sure their feet are OK.I generally leave the elastikon in place if they haven’t run it off.
LGRA is a great sport for retired racers.It focuses on the Greyhound’s raw speed and is a blast to watch.I hope you now know a little more about LGRA and how much fun it is!Tune in next week for another post on amateur running sports.
